Über-cozy Austrian mountain hotel for foodies

Hotel Hirschen / Schwarzenberg / Austria

Some hotels just blows you away. This is one of those. From the moment you arrive it is like you have been transported to an old Grimm Brother’s fairytale. If Hans & Gretl, after they escaped from the witch, decided to open an hotel, I am sure this is how it would look. The place I am referring to is Hirschen Hotel in Schwarzenberg, Austria.

I first heard about this place from one of my favorite sources of inspiration, The Aficionados, and I instantly knew I needed to go. There is something with Alpine design that connects with me. The way old traditions are updated to fit into the here and now without destroying the heritage. Larch clad facades, blonde wood interior, loden and plenty of solid craftsmanship with an attention to detail. 

All in all, there are 36 rooms situated in two different houses, the Wälderhaus and the main building. These houses are located right next to each other (with the spa situated in the Wälderhaus). Our room was in the main building where the ceilings are really low, both floors, walls and ceilings are all made of wood and the floorboards squeak when you walk from the bed to the bathroom. All the rooms are individually designed with a nod to different local artists. 

And then there is the food… This is a place where the food is more than important. The dinner was served in a very free flow kind of way. There is a menu with different selections per course but it is totally up to you to chose your way through your dinner. If you just want to have the 4 different startes, that is fine. Or if there is one dish you particularly like, you can order that again but in a larger size. My kind of place! 

Sometimes words are unnecessary. Just look at this beautiful, larch clad building!

The bar in the large common room, perfectly located opposite a large fireplace.

Our cosy little room. I recommend to opt for a room in the main building. Funny how much lower ceilings were back in the day. I could just barely stand up in our room. The low ceiling made the room feel so cozy. This bed helped too.

A window with a view. A view of snowy winter wonderland.

I really like the mix between old an new in our bathroom. These tiles are to die for.

A hotel this great must have solid in room products. Luckily that was the case. These are from local spa queen Susanne Kaufmann who has her own hotel just a couple of kilometers from Hirschen.

This common room is everything. It is an art form to be able to create a common space that feels this homey and cozy.

Comfy leather chairs, pillows from Austro-Swedish artist Josef Frank, fire place and something good to drink. Sounds like my kind of place.

The restaurant is made up of two parts, one that is more traditional and classic and one that is a tad more modern but still very cozy.

The food is beyond. This is local delicacy, Käsespätzl. A kind of small dumplings smothered in local cheese and deep friend onions. It landed like concrete in our stomachs but it was oh so delicious.

Me testing the local cross country skiing tracks. Needed some exercise after all that heavy mountain food. And a good way to prepare for the next meal…

The valley where Hotel Hirschen is located is so stunning. Especially when covered in snow on a cold, cold winter morning.

Ok, just needed to post one more photo. This was actually taken when we were leaving the hotel while driving along the winding mountain roads (not by me, mum! By M, of course!)

RG inside info

This place is perfect if you…

…love great food and if you are a sucker for cosy. Hotel Hirschen has both in abundance. The atmosphere is so cosy it is almost unreal with crackling fire place, wooden paneled lounge area with plush armchairs. 

My favorite thing about this place…

…is the food. It is so delicious. And I am such a fan of how the dinner happens. There is a menu with several different choices per course, but it is totally up to you to mix and match as you wish. And if there is something you like, you can just ask for more of the same dish. Or even a larger size. And I also have to mention the service It is really great. Classic, warm, friendly Austrian service which makes you feel right at home. 

What not to miss when staying here is…

…to do some kind of exercise. It is not an option. All that delicious food and the drinks makes it non-negotiable to do something, regardless if it is running, hiking, skiing. And this is also the best way to make room for the next meal awaiting you. 

If you like this hotel you might also like…

Bühelwirt, San Giacomo, Italy

Villa Arnica, Lana, Italy

Hotel Post, Bezau, Austria

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A family-run adults-only alpine retreat in South Tyrol

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City castle hotel with contemporary design in central Ghent